My name is Dave Messinger. I have lived in "Hurricane Country" for over seventeen years. My initial fear, when I first moved to Melbourne, Florida in 1982 was born out of ignorance and lack of information. I have since sought out anything I could read or watch and have spoken to anyone who would graciously give me their ear and time. I have also seen, first hand, the aftermath of two major hurricanes; Hurricane Andrew (Aug. '92) and Hurricane Opal (Nov. '95).
I was living in Palm Beach County when Andrew struck. Though I was 50+ miles North of the point of landfall, during the night it was coming on shore, the spectacle outside my window was incredible.
Since 1985 I trained for and received my Amateur (Ham) Radio Operator's License, I joined Palm Beach County (Florida) Division of Emergency Management in late 1986 and volunteered to be a Shelter Communicator. In the time I have worked with PBC DEM I have held a wide variety of positions. I am now the Emergency Coordinator for Palm Beach County, which is the top volunteer position in the county. From 1995 to 1998 I was on-call with The Federal Emergency Management Agency as a Disaster Assistance Employee. During that time I was deployed to a number of floodings, special events and one hurricane (Opal). I have been a Florida licensed Emergency Medical Technician and Paramedic.
Originally these lists were assembled for Amateur (Ham) Radio Operators to better prepare them for their assignments as "Shelter Communicators". That is, radio communicators inside Red Cross Shelters or assigned to city or county essential functions such as hospitals, police, or fire departments. These communicators keep radio contact going before, during, and well after the storm. In this way messages or "traffic" can be passed to those that need it. Messages are passed, even though agencies like; local police or fire departments, Red Cross, hospitals, road maintenance crews and news media do not share common radio frequencies or a common technical language. They are essentially translators and relay between very different segments of recovery teams.
These lists have been compiled from books, pamphlets, and handouts published by sources such as: The American Red Cross, Florida Power & Light, Palm Beach County Division of Emergency Management, and other federal, state and county agencies. Also included are some of my own suggestions that come from common sense, other reading and learning, and many years experience preparing for the unthinkable.
These lists have been broken down into distinct categories, each covering one basic topic. However, "The Master List" should be taken as a whole ... a complete hurricane preparedness strategy, including; securing your home, office, boat, car, outdoor furniture, windows, shrubs and trees (keep them trimmed), all family members (including the elderly, people with special needs, and pets), and any other special considerations you may have.
Obviously, hurricanes do not happen every day. They are a unique, highly destructive, phenomenon of Mother Nature. Preparing and surviving one will take planning that must start today!
Please bear in mind that these lists started out for a select group of technical people and have been edited and added-to for the general population. This group of check lists have gone through a number of incarnations over the several years I have been "fine tuning" them. As it is impossible to create anything that is perfect for "everybody" please do not consider this work "the last word" in preparation. Feel free to make modifications, additions or subtractions to "fine tune" things for your special circumstances. If you have any suggestions please send them to me at the address on the "Further Information" page.
Updates: From time to time I will be making changes and updates to these lists. As suggestions come in and more or better information becomes available I try to reflect that information here. Please send your name and address to the address listed below (Attention: Hurricane Book), as I am keeping a mailing list for future updates. As the list grows mailing and copying costs could become prohibitive. If this becomes the case I will send out a mailing asking for a small fee. This effort is accomplished on a very personal level; my home, my time, my computer and printer ... Any donations are gratefully excepted.
Thank you for your time and any suggestions you may have. I would also like to thank all those that offered advice and gave of their time to help me with this. A special "Thank You" to Chuck Ritchie, W4BUG, South Palm Beach County's Area Coordinator for Division of Emergency Management; my mentor and "my other father".
For further information, suggestions or to be on the mailing list, write;
Dave Messinger
Amateur Radio Call Sign: N4QPM
20423 State Road 7, Suite 285
Boca Raton, Florida 33498
or
World Wide Web site; http://www.uncledave.org
e-mail; n4qpm@uncledave.org
Other information may be obtained by contacting;
Your local Red Cross chapter,
You local Division of Emergency Management (check the white pages under "County Government")
Or The Federal Emergency Management Agency (check the white pages under "US Government")
1) Everyone that keeps us informed;
The NWS (National Weather Service) who are simply your folks at the local weather office,
The NHC (National Hurricane Center) in Miami, Florida,
The NSSL (National Sever Storm Laboratory) in Oklahoma,
The NSSFC (National Sever Storms Forecast Center) in Kansas,
An army of men and women that "keeps it manned" 24 hours-a-day for our protection and to further our knowledge.
2) All the colleges and universities that not only study in the class room but send teams out to cover hurricanes, tornadoes, freezing blizzards, flooding and the like. AKA; The Store Chasers.
3) The "Hurricane Hunters". The men and women that crew the very special aircraft set up by The U.S. Air Force. These crew fly directly in to tropical storms and hurricanes (yes, on purpose) to obtain data, not just to forecast the storm or warn people in it's path but for future study and understanding.
4) The private side of weather; Our local, unsung, heroes; The TV Weather Forecaster. Often the brunt of jokes and comments about accuracy, these people will stay up all night reporting and researching a potentially dangerous weather phenomenon partly because its their job but more often because of their allegiance and concern to "their neighborhood". I have seen national and local Forecasters head right for a trouble spot to let people know the extent and severity of a weather system. There is a saying with Firefighters; "It takes a "special person" to run into a burning building when everyone else is running out", this applies to Field Forecasters too.
5) And especially, The Public Safety Workers encompassing diverse backgrounds like Law Enforcement, Fire Fighting, Paramedics, Emergency Medical, Hospitals, Emergency Management (Government and Private), Electrical Power, Water & Sewer, and Roads & Bridges. These people are out in the rain, snow, hail, sleet, wind, cold and heat ... before, some during and always after a storm making sure we are as safe as can be, clearing the roads, responding to emergencies and getting things running again.
Important Notice (yes, the disclaimer): I have tried to include as much information in this book as possible. I'm sure I have not answered every question you may have. I'm equally sure I have left some things out. Again if you have any suggestions please write. Additionally, I have no control as to what purpose or to what end you will put this information. Thus, I can make no warrantee, guarantee, or promise what can be achieved. Please; seek out other information, talk to people, ask questions but above all else ... use your God given common sense. This is the information age ... use it!
Just reading this is a good start but it's not enough. Hurricane planning can not start when the warnings go up. By then you will be in a defensive mode. Start your offense early. If nothing else it will contribute to your sleeping better at night.
Water, the life blood of survival. Each adult should plan on and store one (1) gallon of water per day for survival purposes. With a three (3) day supply minimum, preferably, a one to two week supply. A normal person drinks 2 quarts of fluid per day, minimum. Children, Nursing Mothers, Elderly, or those people with illnesses will drink MORE! A normal person sweating in hot weather or under physical stress / activity will drink MORE!! (Like cleaning up after a hurricane in South Florida).
Some supermarkets sell filtered or spring water in 2.5 gallon containers. Three of these, per person, would seem an ideal start for hurricane survival stock piling. During each routine grocery trip pick up a 2.5 gallon jug and start building your stock pile. Also, do not discount "energy drinks" such as Gatoraid, etc.
The use of this gallon per day of water breaks down into 1/2 gallon per day for drinking / food preparation, and 1/2 gallon for sanitation purposes. There is no such thing as "extra water", any extra WILL be used.
Extra water for washing dishes, washing clothes, sanitation, toilet flushing, emergencies, etc. may be stored in a bath tub. Clean and sterilize the bath tub by first washing with soap and water, then go over the surfaces again with a strong (50%) bleach solution. Keep a medium sized pot handy in the bathroom to scoop water for toilet flushing.
If you are not buying your water or prefer to store your own tap water use clear, unbreakable containers to monitor the sediment or bacterial growth in the container. Used, cleaned (soap & water) milk jugs are a good example.
Contaminated or suspect water, before or after the hurricane, should first be strained through several layers of paper towels or several folds of a thick towel. Then, sterilized by one of the following methods; 1) Rolling boil for 3 to 5 minutes, 2) 4 commercial water purification tablets per gallon, 3) 12 drops, tincture of iodine (2% solution) per gallon, or 4) 8 drops of chlorine bleach (without colors or additives) per gallon. If you buy chlorine bleach for water purification, buy "just basic bleach". Usually a "bargain brand" or generic brand is best as it will not have the fancy additives common to some of the top shelf brands.
If possible, let purified water stand 12 to 24 hours and check for further sediment.
So, the formula for water stock piling is;
# of people in home (times) # of days planned = _____ gallons
... then add extra for each child, elderly, etc. ...
... plus 5 gallons (times) # of days planned = _____ gallons
... plus any extra water you can store in bath tubs, large pots, etc.
(Storms may cause structural damage to your home. Therefore, cover any open water storage as dust and debris may contaminate your stock piled water during the storm.)
Remember the survival rule of three's: A normal person may survive (conservatively); Three Minutes without air ... Three Days without water ... or Three Weeks without food.
Your food stock pile should contain foods that need no refrigeration, little preparation, and contain their own fluids. When storing foods that require water for preparation plan for the water on your water work sheet. Again, a three day supply is minimum with one to two weeks preferred. Keep your emergency foods separate from the pantry so they don't get used by mistake. Packed properly, a couple can have most of their hurricane supplies in two milk crates and a medium duffel bag in the corner of the laundry room.
1) Canned foods are best for storing;
Meats - tuna (in water, not oil), Spam, Underwood spreads, etc.
Fruits - in their own syrups or water
Vegetables
Soups - that don't say " just add water"
2) Drinks;
Juices, fruit and vegetables. - singles are better than large cans left open
Milk, canned, evaporated or the new long term storage boxes
Instant coffee, tea, Kool-Aid, etc. (plan extra water)
Sport drinks - Gatoraid, etc.
Sodas (listed last because of carbonation, they do not replenish your body's lost water very well)
(stay away from beer and other alcohol when working in the heat, this will just dehydrate you more)
3) Sandwich makings (keep in mind salty items will make you drink more);
Peanut butter
Jellies - that don't require refrigeration
Cheese spreads
Crackers
4) Snacks;
Nuts
Dried fruit
Potato chips (be careful of too much salt)
5) Paper or plastic utensils
Plates
Cups
Utensils
(each person should keep their set separate and reuse them, rinse in "your water". Do keep "your utensils" separate from other people's.)
6) Just before the storm (24 to 48 hours before)
Breads - hard breads store longer
Cold cuts - in a CLEAN ice chest with lots of ice (to drink later as it melts)
Turn refrigerator and freezer to coldest settings. Also keep door opening to a minimum.
7) Ice!
Lots of it!
The number one request coming from South Florida after Hurricane Andrew.
Freeze as many one or two quart or one gallon containers you can.
Keep them in the insulated freezer as long as possible and keep them close together.
The following is a "whittled down" version of a kit I have on file for "E.M.T./PARAMEDIC'S PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT". For those people with medical training please contact me at the address on the "Further Information" page for the complete list.
For a personal kit consider the counts (cnt) listed as maximum. Most people will not need 40 plastic band aids, for example, or even both sizes. You may want to throw in 10 or 20 of the larger ones, as in a pinch they will cover smaller wounds too. However, "don't cut your own throat". Keep in mind it may be some time before a drug store is open again.
Any first aid kit will be a plus. For most people the easiest first aid kit will be a store bought one (Johnson and Johnson, etc.). Depending on the size and cost of the store kit you may want to add some personal things as well. If you are using a store kit compare the following list to what your kit has. If you are building your own kit here is the starting point.
Remember, this list is a "starting point". Any list, for anything, is a basic list to build from. Look over all of these lists and feel free to personalize them.
This section will cover necessary items you will want to keep readily available. Most of these items you probably already own. Some items are consumable, that is, get used up. You should keep extra on hand so as not to be caught off guard by a storm then suddenly find you are out of bleach. Remember, pack everything you may need. Not too many stores will be open after the storm. The goal is to be self supportive as long as possible.
* = Flammable or hazardous item, please use caution when storing and using.
Mount storm shutters or
Mount plywood or
Tape windows - to keep glass in one piece
(tape will not keep your glass from breaking, it can only help keep the smaller shards from scattering)
Do not;
Trim trees - as storm approaches there will not be a garbage pick up!
This list was originally compiled for people going to a shelter for the duration of the storm. It will be useful for those people with special needs that are going to other facilities too. It is also helpful for people who are staying at home, as a quick check list to make sure everything is handy.
* NOTE: This "Personal Medication Kit" should be made up now. It will consist of an extra refill of any long term medications you may be taking. Consult your doctor and/or pharmacist for help. The situation to be avoided is your main prescription being lost during or after the storm. Or, under a long term recovery (sometimes weeks) your drug store is may be closed and/or your records lost.
Get an extra copy of any critical medications from your doctor. If your drug store records are lost you can get a refill from any drug store. This is especially useful if you leave the area before or after a storm.
Boats - Trailerable boats should be set on the ground. If time permits dig a shallow hole to set the boat in. Then remove all equipment possible. Secure the boat to the ground with straps and heavy stakes. Fill the boat a quarter to half way with water, to add weight. The trailer should the secured to the ground separately, as the weight of the water will damage it. A better alternative would be to store it in a garage.
Removed equipment list includes; fuel tanks, radios, depth sounders, other electronic equipment, antennas, anchors, other loose items, and any outboard engines.
For larger boats or boats left in the water a marine docking facility should be contacted. Boats that must be moved should be moved at least 48 hours before the approach of the storm. Remove as much equipment as possible (see the above list). Most likely you will be told to anchor in a secluded / sheltered bay or an inland area. A local harbor will have information on where is the best place to anchor. If possible moor a boat in the middle of a canal or narrow river with double mooring lines to each shore, because of traffic this may be illegal in some areas. Boats should not be tied together. Battering from wind and storm surge will cause damage. Boats docked near the ocean will be damaged by wind and storm surge. Remember, this will take time and most bridges will be locked down for the evacuation of the beach areas 24 to 48 hours before the approach of a storm. During preparation for a major storm Land Traffic will have the priority.
Authorities will be removing their boats from the water. This includes Fire-Rescue, Sheriff, Municipalities, and smaller Coast Guard vessels. Do Not Count on them for assistance or rescue! No one should try to "weather the storm" on board a boat! (This is right up there with riding out a storm in a mobile home.)
In order to move your boat quickly, before or after the storm - Check; batteries fully charged, fuel filters clear, cockpit drains clear, bilges clean, fire-fighting gear operational, life saving gear functional & accessible.
I can not emphasize enough to secure your boat early. The number of dead and injured people that were securing their vessels during even "minor" storms is appalling. Even more so when one considers every single one of them was preventable! If the storm is coming and you are running out of time; FORGET THE BOAT! Possessions can be replaced ... people can not.
Mobile Homes , Trailer Homes & RV's - Obviously this is no place to be in any measurable storm! Any one that thinks he or she wants to weather a storm on a unit such as this only needs look at the damage done during a "minor storm". These types of homes must be evacuated and secured a minimum of 36 hours prior to landfall. Keep in mind RV's will not be allowed on evacuation routes due to the high wind profiles. Either leave early or leave them behind.
If you live in this type of dwelling begin preparing now! There are three (3) main areas to cover;
1. Get your gear together. Look at the other pages of this check list to make ready your evacuation supplies. Check with local agencies to find your evacuation shelter and drive past it so you will not have to "look for it" under stress later or make arrangements with a friend now to stay at their house.
2. Secure your home. If it is a relatively easy to move RV consider asking a friend with a house and a garage if you can store it there, whether you will be staying with them or not. If you don't have access to a garage or you have a large trailer/mobile home look to specialty mobile home suppliers for anchoring supplies. Large stakes, chains, cables and straps are available to anchor your unit to the ground.
3. When you are advised to leave ... DO SO! Secure any loose items outside, i.e. lawn chairs, toys, etc. Turn off your electric, water, and propane or other gas. Have your insurance papers with you.
Many people in hurricane country (and any where in our country) call these dwellings "home". It is sad to think what may happen to these buildings during any sizable storm. They are among the first to feel the storm's wrath, the first to be picked up, the first to be blown over or apart ... but by no means are they the only building to feel the force of Mother Nature. Some times it is hard to remember, they are possessions … lives are much more important.
Those leaving the area should prepare just as those going to a shelter or staying at home. Hurricane Season starts June 1st. Have your car serviced by a reputable mechanic. The term "Once over" comes to mind. Have any questionable item corrected. Mr. Murphy seems to rear his head when just when you would like him to the least.
Special attention should be paid to fluid levels (oil, water, transmission fluid, and windshield washer fluid). Windshield washer fluid is often over looked as not being very important. It is. As sand, mud and other debris is kicked up by winds, visibility becomes very important.
Other items to check include; Tires (make sure they have plenty of tread), Spare Tire (broken glass, nails, boards, etc. will be every where after a storm), and Windshield Wiper Blades (keep a spare set on board). On the topic of Tires, one of the most in demand items in Miami after Hurricane Andrew was Tire Repair Kits or "spare tire in a can". The very same broken glass that may cut your tire and force you to mount your spare may just cut your tire again. Imagine this happening to many, many others and you can see the demand for tires and tire service growing rapidly.
Gas; Simply keep your tank filled. Also, please see the section on "Storing Gas at Home".
If you are thinking about getting a generator or you already have one you will find this page interesting. I have had three generators over the last nine years. That is not to say they average three years. On the contrary, a good "Gen. Set" will last several years with proper maintenance. Keep in mind a generator is basically a small engine and group of wire coils. Please note: When a hurricane is threatening generators (along with plywood, water, etc.) are sold out rather fast. If you're thinking about a Gen. Set make your calculations now! Buy your generator now! Learn how to run and hook it up now!
When sizing up your needs or desires for a generator you will be "adding watts". Check the labels affixed to the items you want to power; lights, TV, refrigerator, etc. Most will have a label or placard with information on the power consumption. Also check the owner's manual for this information. If the power requirements are not listed in watts look for it to be listed in amps and volts. Multiply amps times volts to get watts (amps x volts = watts). Most devices in the US run on 120 volts, 60 Hertz "wall power", thus most of your calculations will be (amps x 120 = watts).
Once you have made a list of the devices you want to power and their corresponding wattage's just add up the watts for your total power requirement. Most smaller generators come in sizes ranging from a couple hundred watts to around 5000 watts (5K watts). There are larger generators out there but once you hit the 5K size limit the Gen. Set gets fairly large and usually runs on diesel fuel.
A generator that will produce about 1000 watts will run some lights, a small to medium TV, a small hot plate and / or some fans for air circulation. Generators around 2500 watts will run your refrigerator and some of the above. To run a fair portion of your home you'll need a Gen. Set in the 5000 watt range. This will run most of your home, sans the air conditioner system. To run your a/c and still have enough power for other devices you'll be getting in to the 10,000 watt (10K) range. If a 10K is in your future, plan on giving up a fair portion of garage space, permanently mounting it, wiring in to you breaker box, and venting the exhaust outside. However, this is usually considered "over kill".
Most home owners will opt for something in the 1K to 5K watt range. This allows the Gen. Set to still be portable, albeit heavy, and to be stored in to corner of the garage and pulled out when needed. Note: Refrigerators usually pull about 1400 watts when running. When starting (because of the motor) they can pull up to three times that. Check yours to make sure, it should be marked on the nameplate.
One friend in the Florida Keys tells me the way he judges the size of his generator; "I wanted the largest, most powerful generator I can pick up by myself." He bought a Honda 2200 watt unit.
When shopping for a Gen. Set the power output is not the only thing to consider. Also check for a large fuel tank, fuel consumption rate, weight (you'll have to get it home and to the shop occasionally), warranty, features like; over head valves, electric starter, 12 volt output (for car battery charging, etc.) and low noise muffler. Some larger generators have a wheel kit available for them. I have built a plywood and 2x4 cart for my 5k but if you can buy and then bolt on a wheel kit ... well, you decide.
There is also a lot to be said for name recognition. Some engine companies that make Gen. Sets: Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh (can be serviced at most small engine shops); Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha (serviced by most small engine shops and their respective motorcycle dealers); Sears (serviced just about anywhere). Also check RV camper dealers, hardware stores, lawn and garden (lawn mower) stores, and, of course, the paper. Be sure to have a mechanic look at anything used before you buy it.
Run your generator at least once a month ... with a load on it! Running your generator is not only good for the engine, rubber seals and the oil sitting in the bottom of the oil pan … it is good for you too. So you will know how to start, run and stop the engine
By "a load" I mean a sizable amount of the total output, usually at least 10% of the maximum rated power. If you have a 1000 watt generator plug in 5 - 100 watt lights (5 x 100 watts = 500 watts). I use a space heater that pulls 500 watts plus 5 - 250 watt flood lights (totals 1750 watts) to "load" my 5K generator. Then let it run for at least a half an hour. This lets the engine heat up to proper operating temperature, get the oil circulating and burns off old fuel. Do not store fuel in the tank if the generator will not be run for 30 days or longer. Gasoline will start to turn bad after about 30 days, after 90 days it's fairly useless. The same goes for stored gas. Use a gasoline stabilizer like "Stabul" or STP. Please see the section on "Storing Gas at Home".
It would also be a good idea to keep some extra oil and an extra spark plug (pre gapped) handy. Any one that has been around small engines knows they some times burn oil and foul spark plugs. These two items and a spark plug wrench will solve most of your problems.
1) Wire in to your breaker box. Instructions for this are well outside the scope of this book. I can tell you it involves a separate "sub-panel", a transfer switch and diligence not to feed the main city power back into your generator when the power comes back on. Those with a high skill in electricity may want to attempt this as, once installed, the transfer of power is easy and complete. Those without electrical skill and knowledge are advised to find a competent electrician preferably with experience in transfer switches.
2) The easier method to set up is simply to drop extension cord runs in to the home. If this is your method keep some things in mind: Buy heavy duty extension cords. 14 gage or up for shorter runs. Larger gages for longer runs or devices that "pull" a lot of power (i.e.; refrigerators). Talk with the people you buy your generator from, the people at the hardware store, etc. I can not make suggestions for your use as each home and each power requirement is different.
First, be aware that pets are NOT allowed in Red Cross Hurricane Shelters. Before the hurricane, talk to your veterinarian about shelters for your pet. Some pet boarding facilities are Red Cross Approved. Call the shelter and ask if it's Red Cross approved.
Keep in mind there is a very limited number of boarding spaces in most areas, if you have another choice please try to utilize it. Other choices could be to leave the pet with a friend out of the effected area or take the pet with you.
If you are evacuating out of the area instead of to a shelter consider bringing your four-legged, etc. loved-one. The number of hotels that accept smaller pets could surprise you. Call ahead to the hotel when ever possible and ask if you can bring your pet. Different hotels have different rules on thing such as; size, type (dog, cat, bird, other), special guest rooms for pet owners (similar to smoking / non-smoking rooms). I have seen, at least, four books out listing "pet friendly" hotels. Check at a local book store, your Vet., the ASPCA or Humane Society for one of these books.
Further information can be gleaned from the Palm Beach County chapter of The American Red Cross at 561-833-7711 or your local chapter (check the white pages), or your local vet. A special thanks to Pat Powell of the Palm Beach County chapter of The American Red Cross. She supplied me with a copy of Don't Let Rover Blow Over Ó an excellent reference pamphlet for any animal lover / owner.
If you plan on storing extra fuel at home for a generator or your car, please be careful. Check county or city ordinances, some have a limit on how much you are allowed to store. While you're calling ask the Fire Marshal's office for any suggestions on how to store it. Store in only approved RED containers (Red means Gasoline, Blue means Kerosene, etc.). Store them outside, if possible. Newer containers are plastic and intentionally made to burst at low pressures. Thus, in a fire, metal or other "gas cans" do not become a "bomb" waiting to explode!
After a storm, most likely the electricity will be off. This means gas pumps will not be working. When the power does come back on you can count on long lines for fuel not just for autos but for generators, chain saws, and the like.
After the storm be suspicious of all fuel, especially of gas stations close to the coast. As the storm surge pushed sea water ashore, some gas stations' underground tanks may be contaminated.
Some ways to check gas; Ask if they have checked there tanks (most people are honest). Bring an approved red gas container and pump a few gallons in to it first and let it settle, then look for water and sediment near the bottom. Look around the gas station if the building is significantly damaged and or there is lots of debris and / or sea weed, etc. and they are still trying to pump gas ... well ...
Regardless of how "good" the fuel seems I still recommend the use of a "fuel drying agent". They are usually packaged in a small bottle similar to other fuel additives and found in auto parts stores or gas stations. One brand name is "Heat", though any brand name (STP, etc.) should do the job. One bottle usually treats 11-20 gallons of fuel (a typical auto's fuel tank). Through chemical reaction they remove, displace and neutralize water in the gasoline. These additives will not negate anything over a small amount of water, nor will they elevate problems from salt, minerals, or debris in the fuel.
If you are suspicious of the fuel it's better to find another station then be left without transportation.
Those radio operators going to shelters or other necessary operations during the storm have a very special, technical need that must be addressed. You not only need your radio, etc., you will need a means of keeping yourself (reasonably) comfortable, well fed, and rested so that you will be able to do your job. The following list is meant to assist you to that end. As with all the lists keep as much of your supplies can be packed and ready to go so you will not be looking for things at the last minute. A duffel bag, plastic milk crate, etc. is an excellent setup. This list could stand by it's self, however, look over everything and above all use common sense. Also, look over the "PREPARING YOUR CAR" Page.
Along another note; MARK ALL YOUR EQUIPMENT! When "tearing down" after a long operation equipment gets confused. People try to "help" you only to find, you have some one else's gear and some one else has yours.
Questions or problems with this web page should be directed to: Dave, N4QPM.
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